Electric Stove Connection in Warsaw

Your new electric stove is sitting in the middle of the kitchen and there is a cable sticking out of the wall that you are not sure about? Connecting an electric stove is not just plugging it in. A dedicated 32A circuit, the right cable cross-section, wiring through a terminal block, proper earthing and RCD testing — that is what a proper installation involves. Whether you are moving in, switching from gas to electric, or just bought a new range — call a professional to make sure everything is done safely. We work across all of Warsaw, from Wola to Praga Poludnie.

Important: an electric stove draws 7 to 11 kW. That is a serious load on the wiring. Incorrect connection can lead to cable overheating, breaker tripping, or in the worst case — a fire. Do not take the risk — if you are not sure about the state of your wiring, call a specialist.

How much does it cost and what affects the price

The cost of connecting an electric stove depends on several factors. Is there a ready dedicated line from the consumer unit with a 32A breaker? What is the cable cross-section — 4 mm² or 6 mm²? Single-phase or three-phase connection? Does the socket need replacing, or should the stove be wired directly through a terminal block? If the line is already in place and the breaker is fitted, the job takes about an hour. If a cable needs to be run from the consumer unit, it takes longer and costs more. Basic fixings are included in the service price; materials (cable, breaker, RCD) are charged separately. Current prices are in the table below.

How the on-site work goes

1. You send a photo of the stove, the consumer unit and the connection point — the technician assesses the scope and gives an approximate price.
2. On site, the technician checks for a dedicated circuit, cable cross-section (minimum 4 mm² for single-phase, 2.5 mm² for three-phase), a 32A breaker and a 30 mA RCD.
3. If the line is ready, the technician removes the rear panel of the stove and connects the wires to the terminal block according to the manufacturer’s diagram (L, N, PE). The single-phase layout differs from the three-phase one — jumpers are set differently.
4. Checks the earthing — without it the stove casing can become live. This is especially dangerous on a wet floor.
5. Levels the stove using the adjustable feet — an uneven installation causes uneven heating on the hobs and problems with the oven.
6. Switches on each hob and the oven, checks heating, thermostat operation and indicator lights.
7. Verifies that the breaker does not trip under load, the cable does not overheat, and the RCD triggers correctly.

Common mistakes when connecting an electric stove (and how to avoid them)

• Plugging the stove into a standard 16A socket — it handles a maximum of 3.5 kW, while the stove draws up to 11 kW. The cable overheats and the socket melts.
• Using 1.5 mm² or 2.5 mm² cable instead of 4–6 mm² — the wire heats up under load and the insulation degrades over time.
• Not fitting a dedicated breaker — the stove shares a circuit with the kitchen sockets; turning on the oven trips everything.
• Mixing up live, neutral and earth on the terminal block — at best the stove does not work; at worst the casing gives electric shocks.
• Not installing an RCD — if the insulation fails, there is no protection against electrocution.
• Setting the terminal-block jumpers incorrectly — wiring a three-phase layout on a single-phase supply or vice versa. Hobs do not reach full power or overheat.
• Not checking the earthing in the consumer unit — the PE wire is there but connected to nothing. The safety system does not work.
• Not levelling the stove — pots slide off the hob and the oven door does not close properly.

What to prepare before the technician arrives

• Take a photo of the consumer unit — the technician can assess in advance whether there is space for a breaker and what the wiring layout is.
• Check whether there is a dedicated cable for the stove (usually coming out of the wall behind the stove) — and let the technician know.
• Find out whether your supply is single-phase or three-phase — this affects the wiring diagram. Most flats are single-phase (230 V); some new builds are three-phase (400 V).
• Clear the space for the stove and ensure access to the wall and the consumer unit.
• Unpack the stove and remove the transit fixings (listed in the manual).
• Have the stove manual ready — it contains the terminal-block wiring diagram and cable requirements.
• If you are replacing a gas stove with an electric one — make sure the gas is shut off and capped. Let the technician know in advance.
• Provide the intercom code, floor number and parking details.
• If the flat is being renovated — let the technician know so surfaces can be protected.

A real case from Warsaw

A client in the Bemowo district bought a freestanding Beko electric stove with four ceramic hobs and an oven. The flat was in a 1990s block; previously it had a gas cooker. An old three-core 2.5 mm² cable came out of the wall — not enough for a 9.5 kW electric stove. The breaker in the consumer unit was shared across the whole kitchen — 16A. The technician ran a new 3×6 mm² cable from the consumer unit to the installation point, fitted a dedicated 32A breaker and a 30 mA RCD. The stove was connected through the terminal block using the single-phase layout — jumpers set according to the manufacturer’s diagram. He levelled the stove and tested every hob and the oven. Under load the cable stayed cool, the breaker held. The job took about three hours — most of the time went into running the cable. Takeaway: if the flat previously had a gas cooker, a new dedicated line is almost always needed — the old wiring is not rated for that load.

Frequently asked questions

Can I connect an electric stove myself?
Technically yes, if there is a ready dedicated line and you understand electrics. But a wiring mistake means a fire risk and a risk of electric shock. If you have no experience, it is better to call a professional.

Is a dedicated circuit mandatory?
Yes. An electric stove draws 7–11 kW. A standard 16A socket circuit cannot handle that load. You need a separate cable from the consumer unit with a 32A breaker.

What cable is needed for an electric stove?
For a single-phase connection — 3×6 mm² (or a minimum of 3×4 mm² if the run is under 10 m). For three-phase — 5×2.5 mm². The exact cross-section depends on the stove’s power rating and the cable length.

Can I use a standard socket?
No. A standard 16A socket is rated for a maximum of 3.5 kW. An electric stove is connected either through a 32A power socket or directly via a terminal block — the second option is more reliable.

What is the difference between single-phase and three-phase?
In a single-phase supply (230 V) there are three wires (live, neutral, earth) and the load goes through one conductor. In a three-phase supply (400 V) there are five wires and the load is distributed evenly. Three-phase allows a thinner cable but requires a suitable consumer unit.

Is an RCD needed for an electric stove?
Yes. A 30 mA RCD protects against electrocution if the insulation fails. It is a safety requirement, not a recommendation.

How long does the connection take?
If the dedicated line is in place — about an hour. If a cable needs to be run from the consumer unit — two to four hours depending on the distance and routing method.

Who does the work

Electric stove connections are handled by technicians experienced in electrical installation — from flats in Zoliborz to new developments in Wilanow. We arrive with tools, a multimeter and a basic set of consumables. If a cable, breaker or RCD is needed, we discuss it beforehand and bring it along. To book, call or message us — we reply within an hour.