Electrical Socket Installation in Warsaw — Adding a New Power Point

No socket behind the sofa, need an extra point in the kitchen for the coffee machine, or a socket in the bathroom for the washing machine — familiar problem. Extension leads and adaptors are a temporary fix that overloads the wiring and creates risk. The proper solution is to install a new socket. But it is electrical work: you need to know cable sizes, connect to the consumer unit correctly, provide earthing and meet regulations. In flats on Mokotow, houses in Bielany, new builds on Wilanow — wiring varies by generation and every flat needs its own approach. If you are not confident with electrics, do not take the risk — call a professional.

How much does it cost and what affects the price

The cost depends on the installation type (surface or flush mount), whether the wall needs chasing, new cable routing and the distance to the consumer unit. A simple back-box swap and socket fitting is quick. A full install with cable from the board, wall chasing and making good takes longer. Current prices for all electrical work are in the table below. The socket and back box are supplied by the client; fixings are included.

Serviceminmax
Light switch installation 50 zł/szt90 zł/szt
Light switch replacement 60 zł/szt60 zł/szt
Light switch repair 60 zł/szt120 zł/szt
Electrical socket installation 80 zł/szt120 zł/szt
Electrical socket replacement 50 zł/szt80 zł/szt
Electrical socket repair 60 zł/szt100 zł/szt
Electrical point installation 120 zł/pkt180 zł/pkt
Wall chasing for wiring 40 zł/mb70 zł/mb
Electrical wiring installation 15 zł/mb30 zł/mb
Junction box wiring connection 40 zł/szt80 zł/szt
Lighting installation (lamp, chandelier) 80 zł/szt150 zł/szt
Lighting replacement 150 zł/szt150 zł/szt
Lighting repair 120 zł250 zł
LED strip installation60 zł/mb90 zł/mb
LED transformer installation 150 zł/szt220 zł/szt
Light bulb / halogen replacement 30 zł/szt50 zł/szt
Power socket installation 230/400 V 120 zł/szt220 zł/szt

How the installation works

  1. Inspection: we decide the position, scan the wall for existing cables and assess the load on the circuit.
  2. Isolating the supply: we switch off the relevant circuit at the board and confirm the line is dead with a voltage tester.
  3. Chasing (if needed): we cut a channel for the cable and a recess for the back box using a chaser or SDS drill with a core bit.
  4. Cable routing: we run a cable of the correct size (usually 2.5 mm² for domestic sockets) from the consumer unit or the nearest junction box.
  5. Fitting the back box: we set it in the wall with plaster, ensuring it is level.
  6. Wiring: we strip the cables, connect live, neutral and earth to the socket mechanism, and check all terminals are tight.
  7. Testing: we switch the circuit on, verify voltage with a multimeter and test the socket under load.

Common mistakes

  • Connecting to an undersized circuit — 1.5 mm² cable is not designed for high-draw appliances and can overheat.
  • No earth connection — dangerous, especially in wet rooms.
  • Chasing a load-bearing wall without permission — this can compromise the structure and cause issues with building management.
  • Joining wires with twist connections instead of proper terminals — the joint loosens over time and heats up.
  • Fitting a standard socket in a bathroom — a splash-proof unit with a cover (IP44 or above) is required.
  • Not checking the circuit load — too many appliances on one circuit trips the breaker.
  • Plastering over the chase before testing — if the cable was nicked during chasing, the wall has to be opened again.

Warning: electrical work is life-threatening if done incorrectly. Poor connections can cause short circuits, fires or electric shock. If you are not a qualified electrician, do not attempt it yourself.

What to prepare before the visit

  • Decide exactly where the socket is needed — at what height and on which wall.
  • Buy the socket and back box (if you know the range and colour) — or leave the choice to the technician.
  • Find out where the consumer unit is and whether there are spare breaker slots.
  • If the socket is for a high-power appliance (air conditioner, boiler), say so in advance — a dedicated circuit is needed.
  • Clear the wall area — move furniture, pictures and shelves at least a metre away.
  • If the wall is tiled or has decorative plaster, let us know — chasing requires extra care.
  • Ensure access to the consumer unit.
  • Keep in mind: chasing creates dust — cover or move items within a 2–3 metre radius.

A real case from Warsaw

We were called to a flat on Mokotow. The owners had placed an electric fireplace in the living room, but the nearest socket was 4 metres away and they were running it through an extension lead. The fireplace draws 2 kW and the extension was getting hot. We ran a dedicated 2.5 mm² cable from the consumer unit, chased the wall, fitted a back box and an earthed socket next to the fireplace. It was connected via a separate 16 A breaker. We tested under load — everything worked, the cable stayed cool and the breaker held. The chase was filled with plaster and the surface prepared for painting. The whole job took about 3 hours.

Frequently asked questions

Can a socket be added without chasing?
Yes — surface-mounted in a cable trunking. It looks less tidy but is faster and cheaper. Suitable for garages, utility rooms and temporary setups.

What cable size is needed?
For standard domestic sockets — 2.5 mm². For high-power appliances (cooker, boiler, air conditioner) — 4 or 6 mm² on a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit.

Is permission needed to install a socket?
For a standard domestic socket — no. For major electrical modifications (new circuit, changes to the consumer unit) — it depends on the building rules.

How many sockets can go on one circuit?
It depends on cable size and total load. A 2.5 mm² circuit with a 16 A breaker handles up to 3.5 kW combined. The technician will calculate on site.

How long does installation take?
A simple fit into an existing back box — 30–40 minutes. With cable routing and chasing — 2–4 hours depending on distance.

Can a socket be installed in a bathroom?
Yes, but it must be splash-proof (IP44 or above), earthed, at least 60 cm from the bath or shower, and connected through an RCD (residual current device).

Book the installation

We install sockets across Warsaw — flush and surface mount, domestic and heavy-duty, with earthing and protection. We arrive with tools and supplies. Get in touch — we will add the power points you need in a single visit.