Interior Door Replacement in Warsaw — Old Door Removal and New Door Fitting
24.02.2026Interior Door Replacement in Warsaw — Old Door Removal and New Door Fitting
Old interior doors mean gaps all around the frame, peeling finish, wobbly hinges and latches that no longer click shut. Replacing a door is not just a matter of lifting one leaf off and hanging another — you need to carefully remove the old frame, clear out years of expanding foam and plaster debris, straighten the reveals, and only then fit the new assembly. We handle door replacements across Warsaw, from Zoliborz to Wilanow. If the opening is damaged after removal, the walls are uneven or the new door is a different size to the old one, we sort it out on site.
How much does a door replacement cost and what affects the price

The cost of replacing an interior door depends on the condition of the existing opening: how badly the reveals are damaged, whether the opening needs widening or narrowing, and whether there are signs of damp or mould. The type of new door also matters — hinged, sliding or concealed frame. Fixings and expanding foam are included in the labour cost. The door itself, the frame, architraves and hardware are purchased by the client. Removal of the old door and building waste, as well as carrying new materials upstairs, are charged separately. Current prices for all our door services are in the table below.
| Service | min | max |
|---|---|---|
| Interior door installation | 700 zł | 1100 zł |
| Interior door replacement | 800 zł | 1300 zł |
| Door removal | 150 zł | 300 zł |
| Door trimming | 120 zł | 250 zł |
| Door frame installation | 250 zł | 450 zł |
| Door adjustment | 30 zł | 60 zł |
| Squeaky door lubrication | 40 zł | 80 zł |
| Lock replacement | 180 zł | 350 zł |
| Door handle replacement | 80 zł | 150 zł |
Send a photo of the old door and opening — the technician will assess the scope and quote a price with no hidden extras.
How a door replacement works: from removal to finish

Replacing a door is different from fitting one into a fresh opening. The main challenge is getting the old assembly out without unnecessary wall damage and then preparing the opening for the new frame. Here is how it goes:
- Inspection and measurement. The technician arrives, assesses the condition of the old door, opening and walls. Everything is measured: width, height, wall thickness, rebate depth. The result is a firm price and a list of anything that still needs buying.
- Removing the old leaf and frame. We lift the leaf off its hinges. The frame is either cut out or carefully eased free if the fixings allow. The key is not to rip chunks of wall away with it, especially in older buildings where the plaster is fragile.
- Cleaning the opening. We remove old expanding foam, leftover fixings and plaster fragments. If the foam has set rock-hard, we cut it with a knife and pare it back with a chisel. The opening must be clean and even.
- Preparing the opening for the new frame. If the old door was a different size, we narrow the opening with packing timber or widen it with a breaker. We straighten any reveals damaged during removal and prime the surfaces.
- Fitting the new frame and leaf. We assemble the frame, set it plumb and level, wedge it and apply foam. The leaf is hung, hinge and latch recesses are routed, handles are fitted. We check the swing.
- Architraves, extension strips, finishing. If the wall is thicker than the frame, we add extension strips. Architraves are mitred at 45 degrees and fixed with adhesive or pins. We seal the gap between frame and wall where needed.
- Clean-up and handover. We verify that the door opens and closes freely and the latch engages cleanly. Old door, offcuts and dust are cleared away. The client checks and signs off.
Common mistakes when replacing doors

A replacement is not the same as a fresh installation. It has its own pitfalls, and here are the ones we see most often:
- Buying the new door before removing the old one. People measure against the old frame, then discover after removal that the actual opening is wider or narrower. The correct approach is to measure the bare opening after demolition and only then order the door.
- Ripping the frame out roughly. Levering with a crowbar tears away plaster and even brickwork. The wall then needs repairing, which multiplies the cost. The frame should be cut and eased out carefully.
- Not cleaning off old foam. A new frame is set on top of hardened old foam. It is uneven and rigid, making it impossible to set the frame straight. The result is a twist that shows up within months.
- Ignoring damaged reveals. After removal the reveals are often chipped and cracked. If they are not levelled before the new frame goes in, the architraves sit crooked and gaps appear.
- Not accounting for size differences. A new door can be 2-3 cm narrower or shorter than the old one. Without reworking the opening you see marks from the previous frame, plaster steps and old paint lines.
- Skimping on architraves and extension strips. Cheap architraves that do not match the door in colour or texture, or no extension strips despite a wall thicker than the standard frame. It looks shoddy and spoils the whole job.
- Fitting before filler has dried. If the reveals were patched, the filler needs time to dry. Otherwise moisture transfers to the frame and the MDF or timber starts to swell.
What to prepare before the technician arrives

A door replacement is dustier work than fitting into a clean opening. Here is what to do in advance:
- Decide what to do with the old door — leave it by the entrance, take it to the skip, or dispose of it yourself. Waste removal by the technician is a separate service.
- Clear the area around the opening by at least a metre on each side. Move furniture, rugs and items from nearby shelves.
- Sheet the floor and any furniture that cannot be moved — demolition produces a lot of dust and small fragments.
- The new door leaf, frame, architraves and hardware should be on site by the time the technician arrives.
- Check the contents: hinges, handles, latch, strike plate, extension strips (if the wall is thick). Something is often missing.
- If you are unsure about the size of the new door — do not buy it until the technician visits. It is better to remove the old one first and measure the bare opening.
- Have a power socket available within 5 metres of the opening for power tools.
- Provide the entry code, floor number and lift information — especially if the old door needs carrying out.
- If you have pets, confine them to another room during the work.
- Decide on the opening direction for the new door — it can differ from the old one if rearranged furniture allows it.
A real case from Warsaw: three doors replaced in Ursynow

A client in Ursynow asked us to replace three interior doors in an early-2000s flat. The old doors were hollow-core on timber frames — typical for panel-built blocks of that era. The frames had dried out, the leaves were warped and the hinges were loose. When we removed the first door, we found the frame had been nailed and foamed straight onto the concrete, with no plugs or anchors. We had to cut it out in sections to avoid wrecking the opening. The second door came out without drama, but the third — for the bathroom — was 4 cm wider than standard. The new standard-size door would not cover the full opening, so we narrowed it with a plasterboard insert on a metal stud. After fitting all three doors we patched the plaster chips and touched up the reveals. The whole job took a full working day. The client later wrote that the flat was noticeably quieter — new doors with rubber seals block sound far better than the old ones. The takeaway: replacing doors in buildings 15-20 years old almost always comes with surprises inside the opening, and it pays to be ready for them.
Frequently asked questions
Can I replace just the leaf and keep the old frame?
Yes, provided the old frame is in good condition, straight and compatible with the new leaf. The technician will assess this on site — sometimes it really is cheaper and faster.
How long does it take to replace one door?
Including removal and opening preparation, typically 3-4 hours. If the opening is badly damaged and needs levelling, allow up to 5 hours.
What about damaged walls after removal?
The technician will patch small chips and cracks. For more serious damage he will recommend a plasterer or carry out basic levelling himself.
The new door is a different size to the old one — is that a problem?
No. The opening can be widened with a breaker or narrowed with packing timber and plasterboard. The cost depends on the extent of the work.
Do you take the old doors away?
Yes, removing old doors and waste is a separate service. If you prefer to dispose of them yourself, the technician will leave them in the flat.
What is included in the replacement price?
Removal of the old door and frame, cleaning the opening, fitting the new frame and leaf, routing for hardware, fixings and foam. The door, frame and hardware are the client’s responsibility.
Can I change the opening direction when replacing?
Yes, that is one of the advantages of a full replacement. If the layout allows, the technician will set the frame for the new direction.
Do you offer a warranty?
Yes, on the installation work. If the frame twists or the leaf starts catching, we will come back and fix it free of charge. The door itself carries the manufacturer’s warranty.
Who does the work and what guarantees we offer

Door replacements are carried out by tradespeople with hands-on experience in joinery and finishing — people who understand what old openings look like in Polish buildings from different eras. We cover all of Warsaw and the surrounding suburbs. We arrive with a full tool kit: breaker, mitre saw, hinge router, spirit level, chisels. The technician stays in touch after the job — if a month later the foam shrinks and a gap appears, we will come back and adjust. To book a replacement, call or message us — we typically respond within an hour.
