If the socket throws sparks when you plug something in, the cover has melted, the insert is loose, or plugs keep slipping out, it’s time to replace it. Using a faulty socket can easily end in a short circuit or a fire. In older buildings on Praga, sockets often have no earth and the plastic bodies go brittle; in panel blocks on Bielany, aluminium wiring often has connections that have worked loose over the years. If a socket looks off or starts acting strangely, don’t put it off — call a professional.

How much does it cost and what affects the price

The price of replacement depends on the state of the back box and the wiring. If the box is in good shape and the cables are fine, it’s a fast swap of the mechanism. If the box is damaged, the wires are burnt or too short, there is more to do. Up-to-date prices for all electrical jobs are in the table below. The client provides the new socket; the service covers removing the old one and installing the new one.

Serviceminmax
Light switch installation 50 zł/szt90 zł/szt
Light switch replacement 60 zł/szt60 zł/szt
Light switch repair 60 zł/szt120 zł/szt
Electrical socket installation 80 zł/szt120 zł/szt
Electrical socket replacement50 zł/szt80 zł/szt
Electrical socket repair 60 zł/szt100 zł/szt
Electrical point installation 120 zł/pkt180 zł/pkt
Wall chasing for wiring 40 zł/mb70 zł/mb
Electrical wiring installation 15 zł/mb30 zł/mb
Junction box wiring connection 40 zł/szt80 zł/szt
Lighting installation (lamp, chandelier) 80 zł/szt150 zł/szt
Lighting replacement 150 zł/szt150 zł/szt
Lighting repair 120 zł250 zł
LED strip installation 60 zł/mb90 zł/mb
LED transformer installation 150 zł/szt220 zł/szt
Light bulb / halogen replacement 30 zł/szt50 zł/szt
Power socket installation 230/400 V 120 zł/szt220 zł/szt

How the replacement works

  1. Isolating the supply: we turn off the circuit at the board and check with a voltage tester that the socket is no longer live.
  2. Removing the old socket: we remove the cover and frame, unscrew the mechanism from the back box, and disconnect the wires.
  3. Cable check: we look for melting, breaks, or oxidised contacts. If the wires are damaged, we cut back to a clean section.
  4. Back-box check: if the existing box is cracked or unsuitable for the new mechanism, we replace it.
  5. Wiring the new socket: we strip the wires to the right length, connect live, neutral, and earth to the terminals, and tighten every contact properly.
  6. Fitting into the back box: we fix the mechanism in place, then fit the frame and cover.
  7. Testing: we turn the circuit back on, check voltage with a multimeter, and test it under load.

Common mistakes

  • Changing a socket without switching off the power — risk of electric shock.
  • Skipping the cable check — installing a new socket onto burnt contacts, so the fault comes back.
  • Leaving terminal screws untightened — the connection heats up and starts arcing after some time.
  • Installing a socket without earth where earth is required (bathroom, kitchen).
  • Using low-cost sockets with thin plastic — the body deforms quickly from heat.
  • Connecting aluminium wire straight into a copper terminal — oxidation at the joint raises resistance and leads to overheating.

Warning: even replacing a socket is electrical work. Wrong connections can lead to a short circuit or fire. If you are not sure, call a professional.

What to prepare before the visit

  • Buy the new socket — check whether you need an earthed one (for kitchens and bathrooms — mandatory).
  • Make sure you know where the consumer unit is — the technician will need to isolate the circuit.
  • Clear the area around the socket — move furniture out of the way.
  • If the socket is sparking or giving off smoke, isolate the circuit before our visit and stop using it.
  • If you want several sockets changed, tell us in advance — we can handle them all in one visit.
  • If the building has aluminium wiring, mention it — special connectors will be needed.

A real case from Warsaw

We got a call to a flat on Praga Poludnie. A kitchen socket had begun smoking when the kettle was turned on. We isolated the circuit and took the socket out — the wires had melted and the back box was cracked from heat. The cause was a loose live terminal that had been heating up for years. We trimmed the wires back to sound sections, replaced the back box, and installed a new earthed socket with quality spring-cage terminals. We tested it under a 2 kW load — everything worked properly, with no overheating. While on site, we checked the nearby sockets — two of them also had loose contacts, and we tightened them. The whole job took around an hour (compatible with Legrand, Schneider Electric, ABB and similar).

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell a socket needs replacing?

It sparks when a plug is pushed in or pulled out, the casing is melted or stained, the mechanism feels loose, the plug slips out, or you can smell burning plastic when it is under load.

Can I change an unearthed socket to an earthed one?

Physically yes. But if there is no earth wire in the installation, the earth pin will do nothing. A proper earth needs an extra cable to be installed.

Do new sockets fit old back boxes?

That depends on the standard. Modern sockets are made for 68 mm round boxes. If the old box is square or non-standard, it has to be replaced.

How long does replacement take?

One socket — 20–40 minutes. If the back box or wire ends need replacement — up to an hour.

Can one single socket be changed to a double?

Yes, if the back box allows for it (or is changed to a double). But the total load on the circuit must remain within limits.

Is it dangerous to keep using a socket that sparks a little?

Yes. Sparking means there is a bad connection, which causes overheating and can start a fire. Replace it as soon as you can.

Book the replacement

We replace sockets all over Warsaw — single, double, earthed, and unearthed. We inspect the wiring, tighten connections, and change back boxes where needed. Get in touch — we can come out and replace them in one visit.