Laminate Flooring Installation in Warsaw — Level Floors, No Surprises
22.02.2026Laminate Flooring Installation in Warsaw — Level Floors, No Surprises
Bought the panels, brought them home, looked at the floor — and it is not level? Or maybe it seemed fine, but after installation the boards creak, click at the joints, and separate after a couple of months? That is the classic result of laying laminate without proper preparation. We install laminate flooring across all of Warsaw — in new builds and older apartments, in homes and offices. We arrive with our tools, check the subfloor, and lay everything with the correct expansion gaps and technique. If you want a floor that stays flat and trouble-free for years, give us a call.
How much does laminate installation cost and what affects the price
The price depends on the area, the condition of the subfloor, and the type of panels. Standard click-lock laminate is one rate; glue-down vinyl planks are another. If the floor is uneven and needs preparation (levelling, priming), that adds to the total. Removal of old flooring, skirting boards, and thresholds are priced separately. Underlay and the laminate itself are supplied by the client — we work with what you have or advise on what to buy. Current prices are in the table below.
| Service | min | max |
|---|---|---|
| Floor panel removal | 15 zł/m² | 25 zł/m² |
| Floor panel installation | 70 zł/m² | 90 zł/m² |
| Floor panel replacement | 70 zł/m² | 100 zł/m² |
| Vinyl panel installation | 80 zł/m² | 120 zł/m² |
| Baseboard installation | 30 zł/mb | 45 zł/mb |
| Baseboard removal | 15 zł/mb | 25 zł/mb |
| Old flooring removal | 12 zł/m² | 20 zł/m² |
| PVC flooring installation | 45 zł/m² | 75 zł/m² |
| Glue-down flooring installation | 45 zł/m² | 75 zł/m² |
| Floor threshold installation | 180 zł | 300 zł |
| Door trimming after floor installation | 120 zł | 250 zł |
How the on-site installation works
- You send a photo of the room and the approximate area — the technician estimates the scope and gives you a rough cost.
- On site we check the subfloor: level, moisture, condition of the screed. If there are dips greater than 2 mm per metre, we tell you straight away — levelling is mandatory.
- We remove the old flooring if needed: linoleum, carpet, old laminate. Skirting boards are taken off carefully — if they are in good shape, we put them back.
- We roll out the underlay with overlap, tape the seams. Underlay dampens sound and compensates for minor unevenness.
- Panels are laid from the far wall towards the door, with joints offset by at least 30 cm. Wedges go in along the walls to maintain an 8–10 mm expansion gap.
- The last panels in each row are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw. In tricky spots (pipes, thresholds, corners) we make precise cut-outs.
- We fit skirting boards and thresholds. We check that there are no gaps, no creaking, and every lock has clicked into place.
Common mistakes people make installing laminate themselves
- Not checking the floor is level — panels go down on a bumpy screed, and within six months the locks crack under load.
- Forgetting the expansion gap — the laminate pushes against the wall and buckles in the middle of the room.
- Doubling up the underlay “for softness” — the boards start to flex and squeak.
- Skipping acclimatisation — unpacking and laying immediately, then watching the panels expand or shrink over the following weeks.
- Not staggering the joints — seams line up in a row, making the floor structurally weak and visually poor.
- Hammering panels without a tapping block — chipped locking edges, then gaps.
- Installing laminate in the bathroom without waterproofing — water gets underneath, boards swell.
- Not trimming the doors — the door drags across the new surface, scratching the finish.
What to prepare before the technician arrives
- Clear the room of furniture. The technician does not move wardrobes — that is a separate service.
- The laminate should sit in the room for at least 48 hours before installation — acclimatisation.
- Check you have enough panels: the recommended spare is 5–10 % of the area for offcuts.
- If old flooring needs removing, let us know in advance — it affects the schedule.
- Identify the subfloor type: concrete screed, wooden floor, plywood. This determines the underlay.
- Buy the underlay if the technician has recommended a specific one. Standard thickness is 2–3 mm.
- Have skirting boards and thresholds ready — best to fit them straight after laying.
- Make sure there is a power socket nearby for the tools.
- If you have underfloor heating, tell us beforehand — a special underlay is required.
- Provide the intercom code and parking information.
A real case from Warsaw
A client in the Bemowo district bought a second-hand flat — 55 square metres, old linoleum over concrete throughout. He wanted laminate in every room except the bathroom. We started with demolition: removed the linoleum and found adhesive residue and a screed with up to 4 mm of unevenness. Two rooms got a self-levelling compound; in the third, sanding was enough. A day later, once the compound had cured, we rolled out the underlay and laid the laminate. In total — 48 square metres over two working days. We also trimmed three doors that would not close after the new floor went in, fitted skirting boards around the perimeter, and installed thresholds in every doorway. The client moved in the next day — the floor is flat, nothing creaks, the doors close properly. Three months later he messaged us to say everything is still perfect.
Frequently asked questions
What laminate should I choose?
For a flat, class 32 is sufficient; for an office or hallway, go with class 33. An 8 mm thickness is the sweet spot. Vinyl planks are a good option for kitchens and rooms with higher moisture levels.
Does the floor need levelling?
If the deviation exceeds 2 mm per metre — yes, without question. Otherwise the locks will be under stress and eventually break.
How long does installation take?
A standard room of 15–20 m² takes roughly 3 to 4 hours on a level subfloor. With demolition and levelling, allow a full day.
Can I lay laminate over old linoleum?
You can, provided the linoleum lies flat with no bubbles or waves. It acts as extra underlay. But removing it is better — there may be moisture or unevenness underneath.
What if the laminate buckles?
Usually the cause is a missing expansion gap. Remove the skirting, trim the panels 8–10 mm back from the wall, and let the floor settle. If the buckling is from water damage, the affected panels need replacing.
Do you install vinyl planks as well?
Yes, we lay both vinyl (LVT/SPC) and classic laminate. Vinyl requires a smoother subfloor but lasts longer in damp areas.
Do you work on weekends?
Yes, Saturdays and Sundays included. Book ahead if you can — weekends are our busiest days.
Are materials included in the price?
No, materials (laminate, underlay, skirting) are purchased by the client. We help calculate quantities and can recommend a brand.
Who does the work and how we operate
Installation is carried out by technicians experienced in floor coverings — laminate, vinyl, parquet. We do not send beginners — the person who arrives knows the difference between a Click and a Lock joint, understands why an expansion gap matters, and can cut a panel neatly around a pipe. We cover all of Warsaw and the nearby suburbs: Bemowo, Wola, Mokotow, Ursynow, Wilanow — distance is not an issue. If you need flooring installed, call or message us. We reply within an hour and arrange a time that works for you.






