Wall levelling after tile removal in Warsaw — repairing the substrate for a new finish

You strip the old tiles in the bathroom and find a mess underneath: lumps of adhesive, torn plaster, bare brick or concrete. You cannot paint over that or stick new tiles to it — they will not last. The wall needs proper preparation: adhesive removal, patching of voids, and full surface levelling. We work across Warsaw — Wola, Ochota, Kabaty — and we know exactly what to expect behind the tiles in every building type.

How much does it cost and what affects the price

Current prices are in the table below. The cost depends on the wall area, the depth of damage, and what the surface is being prepared for (tiles, paint, wallpaper). If the adhesive came off cleanly, a thin skim coat may be enough. If the plaster is destroyed down to the masonry, you need a cement repair mortar first, then levelling. Tools are included. Materials (compounds, primer) are charged separately.

How the on-site work goes

1. Wall inspection: the technician checks how much adhesive remains, whether the plaster is sound, and if any sections are exposed down to brick or concrete.
2. Mechanical cleaning: a rotary hammer with a chisel attachment or a wide scraper removes the old tile adhesive. In 1970s panel blocks around Wola, cement-based adhesive can be rock-hard — a rotary hammer is the only option.
3. Dust removal and priming: after cleaning — vacuum, then a deep-penetrating primer. Without this, no compound will bond properly.
4. Patching large voids: holes and chips deeper than 10 mm are filled with cement repair mortar and left to cure.
5. Levelling: filler is applied (gypsum for dry rooms, cement or polymer for bathrooms). A long straight edge or wide trowel — depending on the area.
6. Sanding: once dry — with a power sander or by hand. Checked under angled light.
7. Final priming: preparing the surface for paint, wallpaper, or new tiling.

Common mistakes when levelling after tile removal

• Tiling straight over old adhesive residue — quick but weak adhesion; tiles start falling off within months.
• Not removing loose plaster — skimming over it means the whole build-up eventually separates from the wall.
• Using gypsum filler in a bathroom — gypsum absorbs moisture, swells, and breaks down. Wet zones need cement or polymer filler only.
• Skipping the primer before applying filler — the compound sits on dust and does not bond.
• Applying too thick a coat in one pass — it cracks as it dries. Two thin coats with drying time between them is always better.
• Skipping sanding — under paint, every ridge and trowel mark becomes visible.
• Not checking the plane with a straight edge — the wall looks fine by eye, but tile courses reveal every dip and bump.

What to prepare before the technician arrives

• Tiles should already be removed (or arrange demolition separately).
• Clear the room of anything that hates dust — adhesive removal creates a lot of it.
• Cover the basin, toilet, and any fittings with sheet plastic or cardboard.
• Ensure power is available — we need a rotary hammer and a sander.
• If the bathroom is small, clear a path in the hallway for carrying out debris.
• Decide what the wall is being prepared for: paint requires a glass-smooth finish; tiling only needs a flat plane.
• Buy materials in advance or leave it to the technician (charged separately).
• Provide ventilation: open a window in the next room and the bathroom door — the dust needs somewhere to go.
• Share access details: intercom code, parking, floor number.

A real case from Warsaw

A flat in Ochota, a 1960s brick building. The owners were renovating a 3.5 m² bathroom — when the tiles came off, the original lime plaster came with them in large patches. About forty percent of the wall was down to bare brick, and the remaining plaster was cracked and hollow-sounding in several places. Our technician removed all unsound plaster, brushed the brickwork clean, and applied a bonding primer. The deep voids were built up with cement repair mortar over two days of curing. Then two coats of polymer filler with sanding between each. The walls were prepared for large-format tiles (60×120 cm), which demand a very flat substrate. The entire job took five working days. After tiling, every joint was straight and every corner crisp. The owners said the old bathroom had always had uneven tile rows — now they finally understood why: no one had ever levelled the walls properly.

Frequently asked questions

Do I have to remove all the old adhesive?
If it is firmly bonded and the surface is flat, you can leave it, prime, and skim over it. But if the adhesive is loose or uneven, it must come off.

Which filler should be used in a bathroom?
Cement-based or polymer only — they handle moisture. Gypsum filler must never be used in wet areas.

How long does the levelling coat take to dry?
Cement mortar — 24 hours. Polymer filler — 4–6 hours between coats. Before painting — at least 24 hours.

Can I tile straight onto the levelled wall?
Yes, once it is fully dry and primed. The surface must be flat (checked with a straight edge, tolerance 2 mm over 2 metres).

Is levelling for paint more expensive than for tiles?
Yes — paint requires a flawless finish with extra skim coats and thorough sanding. For tiles, a flat plane without final sanding is sufficient.

What if the wall was already crooked before the tiles?
That happens. In that case we first level with render on guide rails, then apply a finishing skim. It is a separate scope of work, but we handle that too.

Who does the work

Wall levelling after tile removal is carried out by experienced plasterer-painters. We cover all of Warsaw and its surroundings. Call or message us — we will visit, assess the scope, and arrange a convenient date. Not sure whether you need levelling? Send us a photo of the wall and we will advise.