Electric cooker connection in Warsaw — safe and up to code
13.02.2026Electric cooker connection in Warsaw — safe and up to code
An electric cooker is not a kettle you just plug into a wall socket. These appliances draw 5 to 10 kW, and a standard household outlet simply cannot handle that. You need a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit, the correct cable size, and its own circuit breaker. Get it wrong and you’ll trip the breakers at best — at worst, the wiring melts. We work across all of Warsaw, from Praga-Poludnie to Wola, arriving with tools and supplies.
Safety notice: connecting an electric cooker involves high electrical loads. If you are unsure about the condition of your wiring or consumer unit, do not attempt a DIY connection. Mistakes here are costly — from burnt cables to fire hazards. Call a professional — it’s faster and safer.
How much does it cost and what affects the price
The cost of connecting an electric cooker depends on several factors: whether a dedicated line already exists, the distance from the consumer unit to the kitchen, and whether wall chasing or cable trunking is needed. If the line is already in place, the job takes about 1–1.5 hours. If a new cable run is required from scratch, it takes longer and costs more. Current prices for all electrical services are in the table below. Fixings are included; cable and circuit breaker are charged separately.
| Service | min | max |
|---|---|---|
| Light switch installation | 50 zł/szt | 90 zł/szt |
| Light switch replacement | 60 zł/szt | 60 zł/szt |
| Light switch repair | 60 zł/szt | 120 zł/szt |
| Electrical socket installation | 80 zł/szt | 120 zł/szt |
| Electrical socket replacement | 50 zł/szt | 80 zł/szt |
| Electrical socket repair | 60 zł/szt | 100 zł/szt |
| Electrical point installation | 120 zł/pkt | 180 zł/pkt |
| Wall chasing for wiring | 40 zł/mb | 70 zł/mb |
| Electrical wiring installation | 15 zł/mb | 30 zł/mb |
| Junction box wiring connection | 40 zł/szt | 80 zł/szt |
| Lighting installation (lamp, chandelier) | 80 zł/szt | 150 zł/szt |
| Lighting replacement | 150 zł/szt | 150 zł/szt |
| Lighting repair | 120 zł | 250 zł |
| LED strip installation | 60 zł/mb | 90 zł/mb |
| LED transformer installation | 150 zł/szt | 220 zł/szt |
| Light bulb / halogen replacement | 30 zł/szt | 50 zł/szt |
| Power socket installation 230/400 V | 120 zł/szt | 220 zł/szt |
| Induction hob connection | 250 zł | 400 zł |
| Electric cooker connection | 200 zł | 350 zł |
| Oven connection | 180 zł | 300 zł |
What is needed to connect an electric cooker
- A dedicated circuit from the consumer unit — the cooker must not share a line with other appliances.
- Cable with a minimum cross-section of 4 mm² (for up to 7 kW) or 6 mm² (for cookers above 7 kW).
- A dedicated circuit breaker rated at 32 A (for 4 mm²) or 40 A (for 6 mm²).
- A 32 A power socket or direct connection via a terminal block.
- Earthing — mandatory. Never connect an electric cooker without proper earthing.
An electric cooker is a freestanding appliance with a built-in oven, unlike an induction hob. It draws more power and has stricter cable requirements. If your flat has old aluminium wiring, you will most likely need a new copper line.
How the on-site work goes
- You describe the task: cooker model, distance to the consumer unit, whether a socket is already in place.
- The technician checks the appliance wattage and assesses the scope of work.
- On site, we inspect the consumer unit: available space, main breaker, earthing condition.
- We run the cable from the consumer unit to the connection point (if no line exists).
- We install a breaker of the correct rating and connect the cable in the consumer unit.
- We fit a power socket or connect the cooker directly via a terminal block.
- We connect the cooker, test every hotplate and the oven, and measure the current draw.
Common customer mistakes (and how to avoid them)
- Plugging the cooker into a standard 16 A socket — the contacts overheat and the socket casing melts.
- Using an extension lead or multi-plug — absolutely unacceptable for high-power appliances.
- Choosing 2.5 mm² cable instead of 4 mm² — the wire heats up and the insulation degrades.
- Fitting a 16 A breaker on the cooker circuit — it trips constantly when the oven and two hotplates are on.
- Forgetting about earthing — the cooker casing can become live.
- Mixing up live and neutral at the terminal block — the cooker works, but protection won’t function correctly.
- Buying the cooker without checking what cable is already run to the kitchen — then a new one has to be installed.
What to prepare before the technician arrives
- Find out the cooker’s power rating — it’s on the nameplate on the back or in the manual.
- Check whether there is a power socket on the kitchen wall (usually larger than a standard one, rated 32 A).
- Look in the consumer unit for a dedicated breaker labelled “cooker” or “kitchen”.
- Clear the space behind the cooker and ensure access to the consumer unit.
- If the cooker is new and still boxed — leave it packed; the technician will unbox it and check the contents.
- Photograph the consumer unit and the kitchen socket, and send the images to the technician in advance.
- Provide access details: intercom code, floor, parking.
- Prepare space for tools — the technician needs room to lay out cable and supplies.
- If the flat has a fresh renovation — let us know so walls can be covered with film during any chasing.
A real case from Warsaw
A client in Ursynow bought a Beko electric cooker rated at 7.4 kW. The kitchen had only a standard socket — old wiring, 2.5 mm² aluminium. Connecting the cooker to it was a sure path to overheating. The technician ran a new 3×6 mm² copper cable from the consumer unit to the kitchen (about 8 metres), installed a 32 A breaker, and fitted a power socket. The cable was routed in surface trunking along the wall — no chasing needed. The entire job took around 3 hours. After connection, all four hotplates and the oven were tested — current draw was normal, the breaker held steady. The client has been using the cooker for six months with no issues. Takeaway: before buying a high-power cooker, always check whether your wiring can handle it.
Frequently asked questions
How is connecting an electric cooker different from an induction hob?
An electric cooker is a freestanding unit with an oven, usually more powerful (up to 10 kW). An induction hob is built into the worktop and typically draws 3.5–7 kW. A cooker almost always needs 6 mm² cable; a hob can sometimes get by with 4 mm².
Can I plug an electric cooker into a standard socket?
No. A standard socket is rated for 16 A (3.5 kW). An electric cooker draws 5–10 kW — the socket will overheat and could catch fire.
Do I need to rewire the whole flat?
No, you only need one dedicated line from the consumer unit to the cooker. The rest of the wiring stays as it is.
How long does the connection take?
If a line is already in place — about an hour. If cable needs to be run from the consumer unit — 2 to 4 hours, depending on distance and routing method.
Are the cable and breaker included in the price?
No, those are materials and are charged separately. The technician can bring them or you can buy in advance based on our recommendation.
What if there is no space in the consumer unit for a new breaker?
The technician will assess the situation. Sometimes modules can be rearranged more compactly; sometimes the unit needs to be upgraded to a larger one — discussed on site.
Do you offer a warranty on the connection?
Yes, on the workmanship. The cooker and materials carry the manufacturer’s warranty.
Who does the work
Electric cooker connections are carried out by technicians experienced in electrical installation. We cover all of Warsaw and nearby suburbs. Minimum order — from 200 zl. To book, call or message us — we reply within an hour. If you send photos of the consumer unit and socket in advance, the technician will tell you straight away what’s needed.
