Bathtub Installation in Warsaw — Full Setup and Connection

Installing a bathtub is a job where mistakes cost real money. A tilt of a few millimetres — and water runs onto the floor instead of the drain. A poorly sealed trap — and within a month, moisture reaches the neighbour below. We install bathtubs in flats across Warsaw: acrylic, steel, cast iron — each type has its own requirements for support and connection. If you are planning a replacement or a brand-new installation, here is how we do it properly and what to watch out for.

Safety note: any work involving water supply and drainage carries a risk of leaks. A badly tightened trap, a poorly sealed joint — and water gets under the bathtub, into the floor structure, down to your neighbours. If you lack experience — call a professional. We work with plumbing every day and know the common pitfalls.

How much does bathtub installation cost

The price depends on the type of bathtub, the condition of existing pipework and the scope of preparation. An acrylic bath on legs is one price. A cast-iron tub on the third floor with no lift is a completely different matter — it can weigh 120 kg, and carrying it upstairs is charged separately. Removing the old bathtub is a separate line item. Current rates for all bathroom services are in the table below. Fixings and consumables are included in the price; the bathtub, trap and mixer tap are supplied by the client. Waste removal is an additional charge.

How the installation works

1. Inspection and measurement: we check the installation area, the position of the waste outlet and water supply points. We measure the recess and confirm the bathtub will fit through the doorways and corridor — especially important in older buildings in Zoliborz and Praga.
2. Preparing the base: the floor must be level and solid. If the screed is damaged or uneven, we level it. For a cast-iron bath we sometimes reinforce the subfloor so the structure can take the weight.
3. Fitting legs or the support frame: an acrylic bath sits on a factory cradle (frame) — without it the base flexes. A steel bath goes on adjustable legs. Cast iron often comes with integral feet that are set to level.
4. Levelling: the bath must sit perfectly horizontal or with a very slight fall toward the drain. We check with a spirit level along the rim in both directions. A tilt is the main reason water pools on the floor.
5. Connecting the trap and overflow: we fit the waste assembly — drain hole, overflow, trap. All joints sit on gaskets and are tightened carefully — over-tighten on acrylic and the body cracks. We verify the trap feeds into the waste pipe at the correct gradient.
6. Connecting the water supply: we install the mixer (wall-mounted or deck-mounted), connect flexible hoses to hot and cold supply. We check pressure and inspect every joint for leaks.
7. Sealing the wall joint: we fill the gap between the bath rim and the wall with sanitary silicone. If the gap exceeds 5 mm, we first fit a trim strip or sealing tape. Without sealing, water gets behind the bath and mould develops.
8. Final check: we fill the bath completely and inspect all connections under load. We drain the water and check the flow rate and that the floor around is dry. Only then is the job signed off.

Common mistakes

• Bath not levelled — water sits at one end while the drain works poorly.
• Acrylic bath installed without a support frame — the base flexes and cracks within a year or two.
• Plastic waste assembly over-tightened — the body cracks or the gasket is crushed, causing drips.
• No waterproofing at the wall joint — water gets behind the bath, under the tiles, and mould grows.
• Wrong trap height — the outlet sits below the waste pipe entry, so water drains slowly or not at all.
• Steel bath with no sound insulation — filling it echoes through two rooms, and the sides cool down fast.
• Acrylic bath base not insulated with expanding foam — water cools quickly and condensation forms underneath.
• No service access to the trap — everything is tiled over, and when the trap blocks, the panel has to be broken open.

What to prepare before the visit

• Buy the bathtub and check what is included: legs or frame, fixings, trap with overflow — these are often sold separately.
• Make sure the bathtub fits through doorways and the corridor — measure in advance.
• Clear the bathroom of furniture and loose items — the installer needs unobstructed access to walls and pipework.
• Check that the isolation valves on both hot and cold supplies are working — they will need to be shut off.
• If the old bath needs removing — let us know in advance, it is a separate job with separate waste disposal.
• Check the condition of the waste outlet: if the pipe is old cast iron, an adapter to plastic may be needed.
• Decide on the mixer type (wall-mounted or deck-mounted) — this determines what holes and connections are required.
• If you plan to fit a bath panel — buy it beforehand so the installer can account for the dimensions during setup.
• Ensure clear access to the building entrance and lift — particularly if the bath is heavy (cast iron, engineered stone).

A real case from Warsaw

We were called to a flat in Zoliborz — a 1960s building with an old bathroom and a cast-iron bathtub. The owners wanted to replace it with a new 170 cm acrylic model. First challenge — getting the old cast-iron tub out through a narrow corridor. We managed it with two people by tipping it upright. The waste pipe was cast iron with a dried-out socket. We fitted a reducer to 50 mm plastic and routed the drain at the correct fall. The acrylic bath went onto its factory frame and was levelled. We sprayed expanding foam underneath for insulation — the water stays warmer for longer. We connected the waste assembly, fitted a wall-mounted mixer and sealed the rim to the wall with sanitary silicone. We filled the bath completely — every joint was dry, the drain ran fast. The owners later fitted a panel and tiled around it. The whole job took about four hours.

Frequently asked questions

How long does bathtub installation take?
Between 3 and 5 hours, depending on the bath type, condition of the pipework and whether the old bath needs removing. If the waste run has to be rerouted, it may take longer.

Can I install a bath over existing tiles?
Yes, provided the tiles are level and firmly bonded. The bath legs sit directly on the tiles. However, the seal between the bath rim and the wall needs extra care — silicone adheres less well to a glazed surface.

Do you remove the old bathtub?
Yes, removal is a separate service. We disconnect the pipework and take the old bath out. Waste disposal is charged additionally.

Which material is best — acrylic, steel or cast iron?
Acrylic is light, warm to the touch and affordable, but it needs a support frame and careful handling. Steel is stronger but noisy and cools quickly (foam insulation underneath helps). Cast iron is the most durable, retains heat well, but is very heavy and expensive.

Do I need a bath panel?
A panel is a matter of taste and practicality. But always leave a service hatch to reach the trap — otherwise a blockage means breaking the panel open.

Can the bathtub be relocated to a different position?
It can, but the waste and water supply have to be rerouted while maintaining the correct drain fall. This increases the scope of work. Discuss it with the installer before starting the renovation.

Book your bathtub installation

A properly installed bathtub means no puddles on the floor, fast drainage and zero leaks reaching the neighbours. We work across Warsaw and arrive with all tools and consumables. Acrylic, steel, cast iron — we have experience with every type. Get in touch — we will arrange a convenient time and get it done neatly and reliably.