Floor-standing toilet replacement in Warsaw: removal and fitting

How much does toilet replacement cost

The cost comes down to how hard it is to remove the old toilet, what shape the sewer outlet is in, and what kind of new unit is going in. If the old cast-iron pipe is rusted and needs an adapter, that adds extra work. Current rates for all plumbing and bathroom services are listed in the table below. Fixings and sealant are included in the service price; the toilet itself and the flexible supply hose are bought by the client.

How it looks in the appFloor toilet replacement in the app, screen by screenFirst the service and a photo: just show the old toilet. A price range appears right away. All that’s left is the address and the day. Handymen see the job and each decides whether to take it. Offers with prices land in the app. You pick the one that suits you.Service and a photoAddress and a day that suits youOffers from handymen, you chooseStep 1 of 5BathroomFloor toilet replacement350–600 zł · per jobEstimate≈ 350–600 złPhotos: show what needs doingNext Step 2 of 5Where?Warsaw, Praga-PołudnieWhen suits you?WeekdayWeekendAny dayDescriptionOld toilet to remove and fit a new oneSend request 4 offersFloor toilet replacementWarsaw, Praga-PołudnieSentYHYuriy H.430 złTaking the old parts away is extra.ChooseTRTomasz R.480 złI’ll bring sanitary silicone, charged separately.ChooseDPDmytro P.540 złI’ll check the water connection first.ChooseSNSerhiy N.580 złFrom the photo it’s a typical job.ChoosePost a request

Price ranges and offers from tradespeople: toilet installation in Warsaw.

Why replacing a toilet takes longer than installing one

In a new bathroom the handyman gets a clean outlet. In an old one, the outlet has to be dug out first.

• Pan bedded in cement. Older blocks set toilets in mortar, and they have to be chipped out carefully to spare the tiles.
• Rusted bolts. Floor and cistern fixings rust solid and often have to be cut.
• Cast-iron soil pipe. The old stack can be brittle, and joining a new pan to it needs adjusting or a new adaptor.
• Valve under the cistern. The old angle valve often won’t shut off fully and gets replaced.
• Removing and disposing of the old toilet is charged separately.

If there is no old toilet and the outlet is ready, toilet installation is enough.

How the replacement works

1. Tradespeople turn off the water feeding the cistern and flush out what is left inside. Then they disconnect the flexible supply hose.
2. Tradespeople remove the old toilet: undo the floor fixings and carefully separate it from the sewer outlet. If the base has been set in cement, they chip it out carefully so the nearby tiles are not damaged.
3. Tradespeople inspect the sewer pipe: check the socket, clean it when needed, or install a rubber transition sleeve.
4. Tradespeople test-fit the new toilet: place it in position, make sure the outlet lines up with the sewer pipe, and mark the fixing points.
5. Tradespeople drill the floor, insert wall plugs, place the toilet onto a bead of silicone sealant, and tighten the mounting bolts.
6. Tradespeople connect the cistern (if it is a separate unit), fit the flush mechanism, and attach the flexible supply hose to the water valve.
7. Tradespeople test everything: flush several times and check each connection for leaks. Tradespeople also check that the toilet is stable: it must not wobble.

Important: any work on the water supply and drain needs care. A bad connection can lead to leaks and water damage in the flat below. If you are not sure what condition your pipes are in, it is better to have a specialist look at them before you buy a new toilet.

Common mistakes

• Buying a toilet without measuring the distance from the wall to the centre of the sewer outlet, the new unit does not match the existing pipe.
• Not shutting the water off fully — once the supply hose is unscrewed, the floor gets flooded.
• Fitting the toilet without sealant between the base and the tile, water gets underneath during cleaning and starts causing smells.
• Tightening the mounting bolts too much: the ceramic cracks and the toilet is finished.
• Using the old flexible connector or rubber sleeve again — within six months it starts leaking on the sewer side.
• Leaving out PTFE tape on threaded joints: drips show up under the cistern.
• Not checking whether the floor is level: the toilet sits unevenly and the cistern fills badly.

What to prepare before the visit

• Buy the new toilet — check the outlet type (horizontal, vertical or angled) and the wall distance.
• Buy a flexible supply hose in the correct length and a flexible connector or rigid adapter for the sewer pipe.
• Make sure the isolation valve for the cistern actually works, if it is stuck, say so in the order beforehand.
• Clear the area around the toilet: remove mats, shelves, and cleaning supplies.
• Keep some old towels or rags ready, a bit of water will end up on the floor during removal.
• If the flat has old cast-iron pipes, keep in mind that part of the drain may need to be replaced.
• Check that the bathroom door opens wide enough to get the old toilet out.
• If the building is old, give the neighbours below a quick warning, just to be safe.

A real case from Warsaw: floor-standing toilet replacement

A tradesperson was called to a studio flat in Ursynow. The toilet was from the 1990s: the cistern leaked all the time and the base had a crack. The owner had already bought a new close-coupled unit with a horizontal outlet. After shutting off the water and removing the old toilet, the tradesperson found it had been bedded in cement mortar, so it had to be chipped out carefully to keep the surrounding tiles intact. The cast-iron sewer socket was in fairly good condition, and a rubber transition sleeve went in. The new toilet sat straight; it was fixed down and the base sealed with silicone. Then the cistern was connected and tested: not one drop leaked. The whole job, cleanup included, took about two and a half hours.

Frequently asked questions

Which outlet type do I need?

Check how your existing toilet connects to the sewer. If the pipe goes into the wall, horizontal outlet. Into the floor — vertical. At an angle: angled. Most Warsaw flats have horizontal outlets.

Can I install a new toilet on old tiles?

Yes, if the tiles are firmly fixed and level. Tradespeople drill, insert plugs and bolt the unit down. If a tile is chipped where the fixing goes, it is better to repair it first.

Do I have to replace the flexible connector?

If the old one is in good shape and fits the new toilet: you can keep it. But they often advise replacing it: a new one costs very little and then gives you years of trouble-free use.

What if the old toilet is cemented in?

Tradespeople chip it out carefully. It takes more time, but in most cases the tiles can be kept. If there are no tiles under the old base, a ring mark will be visible after the new toilet is fitted. That can be covered with sealant or a matching tile patch.

Will the tradesperson take the old toilet away?

Removal and disposal of old sanitary ware is a separate service. Tradespeople can carry it to the stairwell or the waste container for an extra fee.

Do I need to call a plumber separately?

No — their technician handles the whole job: removal, sewer and water connections, and testing. If they find a serious issue with the pipes, they will tell you straight away.

Book the replacement

Tradespeople work all over Warsaw. Tradespeople come with a full set of tools, fixings and consumables. Removal of the old unit, fitting the new one, all connections, and testing: all done in one visit.