A vanity unit is more than just furniture — it is the point where plumbing, fixings, and finishing details all meet. Putting the cabinet together is only part of the work. You still have to hook up the trap, water lines, and mixer tap, set the unit level, and seal all joints so water cannot get behind the furniture. In new estates around Wilanow and old blocks in Wola, it looks the same: the vanity came from IKEA or Leroy Merlin, but nobody is there to fit it. That is exactly the kind of job we handle.

How much does vanity unit installation cost

The cost depends on the kind of unit (freestanding or wall-hung), how the connections are made, and the state of the existing pipework. A wall-hung unit has to be fixed securely to the wall — that takes more work than placing a freestanding cabinet on the floor. If the water or waste pipes need to be moved, that adds to the scope. Up-to-date prices for all bathroom jobs are listed in the table below. Fixings are included; materials (silicone, flexible hoses, trap) are billed separately if they need replacing.

How the installation works

1. Bathroom survey: we inspect where the water feeds and waste outlet are, and measure the recess or wall.
2. Cabinet assembly according to the manufacturer’s instructions — hinges, shelves, drawers. If the unit came flat-packed, we assemble it from the ground up.
3. Wall marking (for wall-hung models): we mark the fixing points, drill the holes, and fit anchors. For freestanding units we level the feet with a spirit level.
4. Mounting the basin onto the cabinet: we fasten the bowl and seal the joint with silicone.
5. Connecting the trap to the waste pipe. We check that the trap bend fits inside the cabinet without catching on the shelves.
6. Connecting the mixer tap: flexible hoses to the hot and cold feeds. If the tap has not yet been mounted on the basin, we fit it.
7. Testing: we turn the water on and check every joint for several minutes. We seal the gap between the unit and the wall.

Common mistakes

• Fixing a wall-mounted unit to plain plasterboard with no backing — after a month it pulls away, often taking part of the wall with it.
• Failing to check whether the trap fits inside the cabinet — then the shelf has to be cut or replaced with a flat trap.
• Leaving out silicone between the basin and the wall — water gets behind the unit, then mould appears.
• Overtightening flexible hoses with an adjustable spanner — the thread splits and water pours into the flat below.
• Shoving the unit tight against the riser — later there is no way to reach the shut-off valves.
• Not setting the cabinet level — water sits in the basin instead of running away.
• Using old flexible hoses again during reinstallation — the rubber inside is already perished, so a leak is only a matter of time.

Important: any work on the water supply comes with a leak risk. If you are not sure what condition your pipes or valves are in, it is better to bring in a professional than deal with the mess after a flood.

What to prepare before the visit

• The vanity unit and basin must be on site — still boxed or already unpacked.
• Mixer tap and flexible supply hoses — if you are purchasing them yourself, check the hose length (usually 30-50 cm).
• Trap — if one does not come with the basin, get it in advance (bottle trap or flat trap for slim cabinets).
• Make sure the water connection points are in the correct place and the shut-off valves work properly.
• Clear the bathroom — remove the old unit or basin if they are still there.
• Check the wall behind the unit: plasterboard needs special anchors; brick or concrete can take standard wall plugs.
• Make sure the waste outlet is accessible — it must not be covered with tiles.
• If you want both hot and cold connections but only cold is available, tell us beforehand.

A real case from Warsaw

We got a call to Wilanow. A young couple had bought a wall-hung double vanity, 120 cm wide. The wall was plasterboard on a metal frame with no timber backing. The previous tradesman had turned the job down. We found the frame profiles with a detector and installed specialist plasterboard anchors at every fixing point. The unit sits solid — we load-tested it. We put the cabinet together, fitted both basins, connected two traps and the mixer tap. The joints to the wall were sealed with white silicone. The whole job took around three hours. A week later the clients confirmed everything was dry and nothing had shifted (compatible with Grohe, Hansgrohe, Geberit and similar).

Frequently asked questions

Book vanity unit installation

A vanity unit fitted properly means a dry floor, plumbing that works, and furniture that will not come off the wall a month later. We cover all of Warsaw and show up with tools and fixings ready to go. Contact us and we will set up a time that suits you.