Toilet Frame Replacement in Warsaw — Old Frame Removal and New Installation

A concealed toilet frame runs quietly for years — until the cistern starts leaking, the flush mechanism fails beyond repair, or the steel frame itself corrodes with age. In buildings across Mokotow and Praga, erected in the 1990s and 2000s, the first generation of concealed frames is reaching the end of its lifespan. Replacing the internal valve set does not always help: if the cistern body has cracked, the frame has rusted, or the manufacturer has long since discontinued the model, it makes more sense to swap out the entire assembly. But replacing a concealed frame is not a quick job. You need to strip the wall cladding, remove the old frame, prepare the pipe connections for the new unit, and rebuild everything from scratch.

Safety note: any work involving water supply and drainage carries a flooding risk. Before opening up the wall, shut off the water and confirm that the isolation valve holds. If the valves are old and do not close fully, do not start the demolition. We handle plumbing every day and know how to avoid emergencies.

How much does frame replacement cost

The price depends on the extent of demolition, the condition of the pipework, and the type of new frame. If the existing cladding is tiled, the tiles have to come off and new ones laid afterwards. If it is plasterboard, the job is simpler but you still need a finished surface. Replacing a frame is always more expensive than a first-time installation: demolition, waste removal, and pipe adjustments are added to the scope. Current rates for all bathroom services are in the table below. Fixings are included in the price; materials (frame, cistern, bowl, flush plate) and construction waste removal are charged separately.

Serviceminmax
Washbasin installation 200 zł300 zł
Washbasin replacement 150 zł250 zł
Vanity unit with basin installation 250 zł450 zł
Basin mixer tap installation 150 zł250 zł
Basin mixer tap replacement 180 zł300 zł
Floor-standing toilet installation 200 zł350 zł
Floor-standing toilet replacement 250 zł400 zł
Wall-hung toilet installation (frame) 350 zł600 zł
Toilet frame replacement 600 zł1200 zł
Bathtub installation 700 zł1000 zł
Shower tray replacement 600 zł1000 zł
Linear drain installation 800 zł1500 zł
Shower cabin / bathtub sealing 35 zł/mb60 zł/mb
Towel radiator installation 250 zł450 zł
Towel radiator replacement 350 zł700 zł
Drain cleaning 150 zł300 zł
Trap replacement 120 zł220 zł

When does the frame need replacing

Not every fault calls for a full replacement. Sometimes changing the valve set through the service opening is enough. But there are situations where demolition is the only option:

  • The cistern body has cracked and is leaking — water enters the wall cavity and reaches the flat below.
  • The flush mechanism has failed and spare parts for that model are no longer manufactured.
  • The frame has rusted or deformed — the bowl moves and the fixings are unreliable.
  • A full bathroom renovation — you are changing everything, including pipe routing and wall finishes.
  • You want to switch to a different brand with better valve internals and parts availability.

Step-by-step replacement process

  1. Shut off the water and drain the cistern. Verify that the isolation valve holds — if it does not, close the riser valve.
  2. Remove the flush plate and lift the toilet bowl off the mounting rods. Disconnect the flush and waste connectors.
  3. Strip the cladding: carefully remove plasterboard or tiles around the frame. If the tiles are intact and needed again, we work gently, but saving every tile is not always possible.
  4. Remove the old frame: unbolt the anchors from the wall and floor, extract the assembly. Clear the debris.
  5. Inspect the pipework: check the condition of the water supply pipe and the waste outlet. If the pipes are old (metal, cast iron), we recommend replacing the section with plastic.
  6. Install the new frame: level it vertically and horizontally, anchor to wall and floor. Connect cold water to the cistern, join the outlet to the drain via a connector sleeve at the correct fall.
  7. Leak test: fill the cistern, run several test flushes, inspect every joint. This is done BEFORE the frame is boxed in.
  8. Box in the frame with moisture-resistant plasterboard, leaving the flush-plate opening clear.
  9. Hang the bowl on the mounting rods, connect everything, fit the flush plate. Final check — flush cycle, refill, no movement.

Common mistakes during replacement

  • Starting demolition without confirming the water is fully isolated — result: flooding.
  • Smashing tiles around the frame when they could have been removed carefully and reused.
  • Fitting the new frame without replacing the old waste seals — a month later, an odour appears.
  • Choosing a frame of a different size without checking it fits the existing opening — the cladding has to be redone.
  • Not checking whether the water supply connections suit the new frame — the pipe needs extending or relocating.
  • Reusing old mounting rods from the previous frame — the diameter or thread pitch may differ.
  • Skipping the leak test before closing the wall — the leak is discovered only after tiling.

What to prepare before the visit

  • Purchase the new frame (with integrated cistern), bowl and flush plate — verify that all components are compatible with each other.
  • Note the brand and dimensions of the old frame — this helps select the replacement without surprises.
  • Ensure the isolation valves are accessible — they must be shut off first.
  • Clear the bathroom of furniture and belongings — demolition produces dust and debris.
  • Prepare a space for waste — demolition yields pieces of plasterboard, tiles and old metalwork.
  • If you plan new tiles, have them ready — or let us know that the cladding will be temporary.
  • Inform your neighbours about the work — there will be noise from demolition and a possible brief water shutdown on the riser.

A real case from Warsaw

We were called to a flat in an older building on Mokotow. The concealed frame had been in place for about fifteen years — the cistern had started leaking inside the wall, and a damp patch appeared on the neighbour’s ceiling below. Repairing the valve set was pointless: the manufacturer had long since disappeared and parts were unavailable. We shut off the water, removed the bowl, and carefully stripped the plasterboard cladding — some tiles were saved. The old frame turned out to be thin-gauge steel, already rusty at the fixing points. We removed it, inspected the waste outlet — cast iron, but in fair condition — and fitted a transition collar. A new Grohe frame was anchored in place, the water connected via a rigid supply line, and the drain joined through a new connector sleeve. We tested twice — completely dry. The frame was boxed in, the bowl hung, and the flush plate fitted. The entire replacement took about six hours. The owners later tiled over the repaired section — almost no trace of the work.

Frequently asked questions

How long does a frame replacement take?
Between 5 and 8 hours, depending on the difficulty of stripping the cladding, the condition of the pipes, and whether they need replacing. If the pipes are sound and the new frame fits the opening, it goes faster. If supply lines need reworking, it takes longer.

Can I install a different brand of frame?
Yes. Wall and floor fixing points are standardised across most manufacturers. However, you need to check the rod spacing, frame depth, and connector compatibility. Sometimes the opening in the cladding needs slight adjustment.

Will I need new tiles after the replacement?
It depends on how the cladding was removed. Plasterboard usually cannot be reused. Tiles can be lifted carefully, but there is no guarantee — some may crack. It is best to have spare tiles on hand or be prepared for a partial replacement.

Replace or repair — which is better value?
If the problem is limited to the valve set (fill valve, flush plate, float) and parts are available, repair is cheaper and quicker. If the cistern is cracked, the frame is deformed, or parts cannot be sourced, replacement is the only option. Repairing an unreliable assembly hidden inside a wall is a gamble.

Do I need a new bowl when replacing the frame?
Not necessarily, if the existing bowl is in good condition and compatible with the new frame’s mounting rods and connectors. But in practice, many clients fit a new bowl at the same time — it is more reliable as a complete set.

Book the replacement

A leaking concealed frame is a problem that will not resolve itself. The longer you wait, the greater the damage: damp walls, mould, complaints from neighbours. We will remove the old frame, install a new one, test every joint, and put the wall back together. We work across Warsaw and arrive with all tools and fixings. Get in touch — we will find a convenient time and get it done right.