Towel Radiator Installation in Warsaw — Mounting and Plumbing Connection

A towel radiator is not just a towel dryer — it is a proper heat source in the bathroom. Warm pipes maintain a comfortable temperature, reduce humidity and keep mould at bay. But hanging it on the wall is only half the job. It needs to be connected to the central heating or hot-water system correctly, circulation must be ensured, tiles must not be damaged and the required clearances must be maintained. In flats on Ochota, houses in Zoliborz, new builds on Wilanow — every building has its own pipe layout. If you would rather avoid the risk of a leak or a non-functioning unit, call a professional.

How much does installation cost

The price depends on the radiator type (hydronic, electric, dual-fuel), the connection method (central heating, hot water), whether pipes need routing or rerouting, and how difficult the wall mounting is. Electric is simpler — just a socket and brackets. Hydronic is more involved — tapping into the system, fitting isolation valves and checking for leaks. Current prices for all bathroom work are in the table below. Brackets are included in the price; the radiator and fittings are supplied by the client.

How the installation works

1. Inspection: we determine the mounting position, check the pipe runs (heating or hot water) and assess the wall type (concrete, plasterboard, brick).
2. Marking up: we mark the bracket positions to match the radiator dimensions and check level and plumb.
3. Drilling and fitting brackets: we select the correct wall plugs for the wall type. If the wall is tiled we use a tile-safe drill bit to prevent cracking.
4. Connecting to the system: for a hydronic unit we shut off the water, tap in, fit isolation valves and a bleed valve. For electric we connect to a socket or run a concealed cable.
5. Hanging the radiator: we mount it on the brackets, connect the pipe tails and tighten every joint.
6. Testing: we open the water, bleed the air and check every connection for leaks. For electric we switch on and verify heating.
7. Clean-up: we remove drilling dust and wipe the unit.

Common mistakes

• Ignoring the system type — connecting to central heating that only runs in winter, leaving the radiator cold all summer.
• Forgetting the bleed valve — an air lock stops circulation and the unit stays cold.
• No isolation valves — if a leak occurs the entire riser has to be shut down.
• Drilling tiles with a standard masonry bit — the tile cracks and needs replacing.
• Mounting on plasterboard without backing — a water-filled radiator is heavy and the fixings pull out.
• Wrong pipe gradient — water pools and the radiator only heats partially.
• Cheap fittings — threaded joints start dripping after a few months.

Important: connecting a hydronic towel radiator involves the heating or hot-water system. A fitting error means a leak, damage to the flat below and an expensive repair. If you have no plumbing experience, call a professional.

What to prepare before the visit

• Buy the radiator — check the centre-to-centre distance (between pipe tails); it must match the wall pipe outlets.
• Decide on the connection type: central heating, hot water or electric. Check with building management whether tapping into the riser is permitted.
• Buy isolation valves, a bleed valve and fittings — the technician will advise if you are unsure.
• Confirm the wall can take the weight: a hydronic radiator filled with water weighs 15–30 kg.
• Clear the wall area — remove old hooks, shelves or mirrors that are in the way.
• Ensure access to shut-off valves and the riser — the water will need to be turned off.
• If the wall is tiled, let us know — the technician will bring a tile-safe drill bit.
• For electric — make sure there is a nearby socket with earth or the option to run a concealed cable.

A real case from Warsaw

We were called to a flat on Ochota. The owners had renovated the bathroom, bought a stainless-steel ladder-style hydronic radiator and wanted it connected to the hot-water system. The pipe outlets were in place but old, with corroded threads. We cut back the old pipes, re-threaded them, and fitted isolation valves and union connections for easy future removal. Four holes were drilled through the tiles for the brackets — not a single chip. The radiator was hung, connected and bled through the bleed valve. We turned on the water — the unit heated up within a minute and every joint was dry. The work took about 2.5 hours.

Frequently asked questions

Hydronic or electric — which is better?
Hydronic is cheaper to run — it uses the building’s existing system. Electric is independent of the heating season but uses electricity. For flats with hot water — hydronic is optimal. If there is no hot-water connection or it would be complicated, electric is simpler.

Can it be connected to central heating?
Yes, but it will only heat during the heating season. For year-round use, connect to the hot-water system or choose electric.

Do I need permission from building management?
To tap into the riser — usually yes, approval is needed. For electric — no permission required.

How far from the shower should it be?
At least 60 cm from the edge of the bathtub or shower tray — for safety and code compliance. Electric units must also be at least 60 cm from any water source.

How long does installation take?
Electric — 1–1.5 hours. Hydronic connected to existing pipe outlets — 2–3 hours. If pipes need rerouting — up to 4–5 hours.

Can it go on plasterboard?
Only if there is solid backing behind the board (timber batten or steel plate). A heavy hydronic radiator must not be hung on unsupported plasterboard — the fixings will pull out.

Book the installation

We install towel radiators across Warsaw — hydronic, electric and dual-fuel. We connect to hot water or heating, mount on any wall type. Brackets included in the price. Get in touch — we will visit, assess and fit.