Stripping old paint and varnish from wood in Warsaw

Old paint on wooden doors, frames and window casings is more than an eyesore. The coating cracks, peels, and underneath you often find three or four layers of previous renovations stacked on top of each other. Painting over it is pointless — within months the new coat lifts along with the old. In pre-war buildings around Śródmieście and Saska Kępa, wooden joinery has been repainted dozens of times over the decades. The only proper fix is to strip everything back to bare wood and start fresh.

How much does it cost and what affects the price

Current prices are in the table below. The cost depends on the surface area, the number of old paint layers, and the stripping method. Chemical stripper costs more due to consumables but is gentlest on the wood. A heat gun is faster but requires care on moulded profiles. Sanding works well on flat surfaces. Consumables (stripper, sandpaper) are charged separately. Tools are included in the labour cost.

How the on-site work goes

1. The technician inspects the surface: how many paint layers, what type of coating (oil-based, alkyd, acrylic, varnish), and the condition of the wood underneath.
2. We choose the method: chemical stripper for moulded panels and trim, heat gun for flat door leaves, orbital sander for large even areas.
3. We protect the floor, walls and furniture with sheeting. When using a heat gun or chemical stripper, we ensure proper ventilation.
4. We apply the stripper or heat the coating with the gun — softened paint is scraped off layer by layer with a broad scraper.
5. Residue is removed by fine-grit hand sanding — especially in corners and on relief details.
6. The clean surface is treated — small chips and cracks in the wood are filled if needed.
7. The timber is primed before a new finish is applied. If painting is required — that is a separate stage.

Common customer mistakes (and how to avoid them)

• Painting over flaking old paint — the new coat bonds only to the old layer, which is already detaching from the wood. Within weeks, everything peels off together.
• Using an angle grinder with a coarse disc — it removes paint instantly but gouges the wood surface. The resulting grooves cannot be hidden by any filler.
• Not checking old paint for lead content — in buildings from before the 1970s, this is a genuine health risk. Dust from sanding lead paint is toxic.
• Working without ventilation — chemical strippers release harsh fumes, and a heat gun can scorch old paint producing toxic smoke.
• Leaving stripper on wood too long — softwood species (pine, spruce) can swell and warp.
• Trying to strip varnish from parquet by hand — this is a job for a professional drum sander; hand-sanding would take a week.
• Starting on one side of a door and running out of patience for the other — the result looks worse than before.

What to prepare before the technician arrives

• Identify exactly which elements need stripping — doors, architraves, window frames, sills, handrails.
• If possible, take doors off their hinges and lay them flat — it is faster and produces a better result.
• Remove all hardware: handles, locks, hinges, bolts.
• Clear furniture from the work area or cover it with sheeting — sanding produces a lot of fine dust.
• Ensure power is available for the heat gun and sander.
• Open windows or arrange ventilation — especially if chemical stripper will be used.
• Remove pets and plants from the room while chemical stripper is in use.
• If the building is pre-war — let the technician know; lower layers may contain lead paint.
• Prepare a drying area for stripped items — at least 24 hours before primer can be applied.
• Provide access details: intercom code, parking for unloading tools.

A real case from Warsaw

A flat in a 1920s tenement in Saska Kępa — the owners were renovating and discovered original oak double doors hidden under seven layers of paint. The earliest layer was a dark brown oil paint, followed by greens, whites and greys added over the decades. Our technician removed the doors and worked on them horizontally. Moulded panels were treated with chemical stripper applied by brush, left for 20 minutes, then carefully scraped. Flat rails and stiles went faster with a heat gun. The full job on both doors took two and a half days. Once stripped, the oak was hand-sanded through 120 and 240 grit, sealed with a penetrating primer, and finished with a satin polyurethane. The grain and patina of century-old oak were stunning — the owners framed the doors as the centrepiece of their living room. They said no piece of new furniture could match the character of the originals.

Frequently asked questions

Which is better — chemical stripper, heat gun or sanding?
It depends on the surface. Moulded or carved details — chemical stripper only. Flat door panels — a heat gun is faster. Large even areas — a power sander. We often combine methods on a single piece.

Can paint be removed without damaging the wood?
Yes, with the right method. Chemical stripper is the gentlest — it softens the paint without touching the timber.

How long does it take to strip one door?
A standard door takes 4 to 8 hours depending on the number of layers and the amount of moulding detail.

Is old paint dangerous?
In buildings from before the 1970s the lower layers may contain lead. We use protective equipment and extraction. If lead paint is suspected — chemical stripping only, no sanding.

Do I have to strip all the way to bare wood?
If the existing coating is solid and not flaking — a thorough scuff-sand for adhesion may be enough. But if even one layer is lifting — everything needs to come off.

Do you paint after stripping?
Yes, painting or varnishing is a separate service. We can do everything in one visit if the scope allows.

Who does the work

Paint stripping is carried out by painters experienced in restoration work. We cover all of Warsaw — from the centre to the suburbs. Call or message us — we’ll assess the scope, choose the right method and arrange a convenient time.