Basin tap replacement

Replacing a basin tap looks like fitting a new one, but it starts with the harder part: getting the old one off. After a few years the nuts under the basin seize with scale, the hoses stiffen and the isolation valves stop shutting off properly. That is why a replacement usually takes longer and costs more than fitting a tap on a new basin.

How the replacement goes

• turning off the valves and checking they really hold the water;
• undoing the hoses and the fixing nut of the old tap, often with penetrating oil;
• cleaning scale and old seals off the tap position;
• fitting the new tap with new hoses and a leak test.

What can turn up during removal

The most common problem is an isolation valve that no longer closes after years, or starts leaking the moment it is turned. Then the water has to go off for the whole flat and the valve is replaced before the new tap goes on. In older blocks even the main valve in the flat may barely hold, which means involving the building manager. The other issue is the tap hole: the new tap may have a different stud or need a different seal.

When to replace and when to repair

A dripping single-lever tap often only needs a new ceramic cartridge rather than a full replacement. If the tap is in good condition and you want to keep it, give the brand and model in the job, so the handyman can check whether parts are available.

Common questions