Induction stove connection

An induction or ceramic hob is one of the most power-hungry appliances in the kitchen. It does not go into an ordinary socket: it needs its own circuit with the right cable size and protection, and the wiring depends on whether the kitchen has a single-phase or three-phase supply.

What connecting a hob involves

• checking what is in the connection box: how many phases, which cable, which breaker in the consumer unit;
• setting the links on the hob’s terminal block to the maker’s diagram for your supply;
• connecting the supply cable to the connection box or a power socket;
• seating the hob in the worktop cut-out on its seal;
• switching on and testing every cooking zone.

Safety first

Electrical work is done with the power off, and it should be carried out by a handyman qualified for electrical work. Wrongly set links can fry the hob’s electronics the first time it is switched on, and an undersized cable heats up when several zones run at once. If the kitchen has no dedicated hob circuit, running one from the consumer unit is a separate job with its own price.

The worktop cut-out

The hob needs an opening cut exactly to the maker’s template, with clearance from the wall and the worktop edge. Stone and quartz worktops are usually cut by a stonemason. In a laminate worktop the handyman can cut it on site, but it is a separate service, so mention it in the job.

Common questions